Crochet Your Way To Cozy Bliss: Easy Crochet Pattern for The Cozy Delight Sweater
I began making the Cozy Delight Sweater last year to create a cozier version of the Pride Summer Sweater by using thicker yarn. It wasn’t meant to be, and I almost gave up on this project to start a new design with the yarn. However, after several months, I decided to finish it since I had already invested so much time and effort into the process. It felt wrong not to complete the sweater. I’m glad I made that decision because the Cozy Delight Sweater turned out great!
Over the years, I have tried various crochet techniques and challenging projects. However, I believe that the simplest crochet garments are the most wearable.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
If you want to give this sweater a try here is what you will need and how to make it:
MATERIALS
- Yarn: Medium weight yarn
- Crochet Hook:
o 5 mm crochet hook - stitch markers (optional for marking the raglan lines)
- yarn needle for weaving in ends
- Scissors
NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
Introducing the Cozy Delight Sweater! This top-down crochet design is worked in circular rounds on the right side. We begin with the yoke, then divide for the sleeves and body.
With its relaxed fit, this sweater is perfect for casual wear. The main stitch used is the triple crochet, keeping things simple yet stylish. What’s unique is that the raglan increases are done individually on the body and sleeves. This allows you to customize the circumference of each part to your liking.
To give the sweater a polished finish, we’ll incorporate a double slip stitch or half double crochet slip stitch ribbing pattern for the neckline, cuffs, and bottom hem. This technique creates a ribbed effect, adding texture and a professional touch.
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The Cozy Delight Sweater pattern is available in 9 sizes, XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL).

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
Final Measurements of the Cozy Delight Sweater
- Neckline circ. a: 61 cm (61, 61, 61, 61) (67, 67, 67, 67)
- Yoke depth b: 14 cm (14, 16, 18, 20) (22, 26, 28, 30)
- Bust circ. c: 96 cm (104, 111, 115, 122) (133, 144, 156, 164)
- Sleeve circ (upperarm). d: 43cm (45, 46, 48, 55) (57, 59, 62, 64);
- *Sleeve length. e: 38 cm (38, 40, 40, 42) (42, 44, 44, 44)
- **Length f: 46 cm (46, 48, 50, 54) (56, 62, 64, 66)
- the sleeve length is measured from the armpit
**the length of the sweater is measured from the top of the back without the ribbing

YARN
For the Cozy Delight Sweater I used: Tweed Delight from Hobbii in color Chai Latte (20); Yarn Composition 85% Wool, 10%acrylic, 5% Viscose; Each ball has 50grams and 100 meters;
For each size you will approximately need: 1010 (1090, 1210, 1310, 1490) (1680, 2010, 2240, 2430) meters or 11 (11, 13, 14, 15) (17, 21, 23, 25) balls of Tweed Delight
ABBREVIATIONS
Ch – chain
tr – triple crochet
fptr – front post triple crochet
dss – double slip stitch or half double crochet slip stitch
sc – single crochet
tr2tog – 2 triple crochet worked together
sc2tog – 2 single crochet worked together
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – row
** – repeated section.
TENSION
Using a 5mm crochet hook working in triple crochet
11tr = 10 cm
5 rows = 10 cm
STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES
The construction technique used for this sweater is called a rectangle yoke. It means that the yoke part of the sweater is divided into four sections: the front, the back panel, and the sleeves, with four raglan lines separating them.
To shape the sweater, we make increases on each side of each raglan line. This allows us to decide how many stitches to increase for the sleeves and how many for the body of the sweater. We can also choose not to increase stitches for certain sections, like the sleeves, while still increasing stitches for the other sections.
To mark the raglan lines, we will use front post triple crochet stitches, although regular triple crochet stitches can be used as well.
The main stitch used for the Cozy Delight Sweater is the triple crochet stitch. For a neat and finished look, we will incorporate double slip stitches or half double slip stitche, into the back loop only for the neckline, cuffs, and bottom hem.
at the end of the row; the decrease is made by working 2 triple crochet together (tr2tog)

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
How to make the double slp stitch?
Yarn Over and insert the hook into the back loop of the indicated stitch; yarn over and pull out a loop; pass that loop through the loops on your hook;
For the sleeves we will also make some decreases, one at the beginning of the row and one at the end of the row; the decrease is made by working 2 triple crochet together (tr2tog)
How to Make the Decrease:
Yarn over twice, as you would for a regular triple crochet.
Insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over, and pull up a loop.
Yarn over and pull through the first two loops on the hook. You now have two loops remaining on the hook.
Yarn over again, insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over, and pull up a loop.
Yarn over and pull through the first two loops on the hook.
Yarn over once more and pull through the remaining two loops to complete the stitch.
For a comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video tutorial here;
INSTRUCTIONS
YOKE
- work the piece in the round, only on the right side;
- each round we will start with the right back panel increase and it will finish with the last raglan line stitch or the right back panel raglan stitch.
-you can start the round with 4ch, counting as first triple crochet or with 3sc stuck one on top of the other or other stitch you are used with for the beginning of the row; in the pattern below the first st will be written as “tr”
Start: ch 92 (92, 92, 92) (92, 100, 100, 100, 100) sts
The total number of sts is divided like this:
Front and back 26 (26, 26, 26) (26, 28, 28, 28, 28)
Sleeves: 18 (18, 18, 18) (18, 20, 20, 20, 20) sts
Plus 4 raglan line stitches
YOKE SIZE XS
Start with 92sts and join the foundation ch to make a circle;
R1: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 22sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 14sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1tr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 30; sleeves 22
R2: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 28sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 20sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next ; rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 32; sleeves 24
R3: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 30sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 22sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next; rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 34; sleeves 26
R4: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 30sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 24sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next; rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 38; sleeves 28
R5: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 36sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 26sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next; rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 40; sleeves 30
R6: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 38sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 26sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next; rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 42; sleeves 32
R7: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 40sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 28sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next; rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 44; sleeves 34
For size XS the Yoke is done and you can move to the BODY section
YOKE SIZE S
Start with 92sts and join the foundation ch to make a circle;
R1: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 22sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 14sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1tr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 30; sleeves 22
R2: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 28sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 20sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next ; rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 32; sleeves 24
R3: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 28sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 20sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 36; sleeves 28
R4: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 34sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 26sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 38; sleeves 30
R5: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 34sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 28sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 42; sleeves 32
R6: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 40sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 32sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 44; sleeves 34
R7: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 40sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 32sts, 2tr in next sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 48; sleeves 36
For size S the Yoke is done and you can move to the BODY section
YOKE SIZE M
Start with 92sts and join the foundation ch to make a circle;
R1: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 22sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 14sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1tr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 30; sleeves 22
R2: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 28sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 20sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next ; rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 32; sleeves 24
R3: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 28sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 20sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 36; sleeves 28
R4: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 34sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 26sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 38; sleeves 30
R5: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 34sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 28sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 42; sleeves 32
R6: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 40sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 32sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 44; sleeves 34
R7: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 40sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 32sts, 2tr in next sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 48; sleeves 36
R8: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 44sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 34sts, 2tr in next sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 52; sleeves 38
For size M the Yoke is done and you can move to the BODY section
YOKE SIZE L
Start with 92sts and join the foundation ch to make a circle;
R1: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 22sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 14sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1tr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 30; sleeves 22
R2: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 28sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 20sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next ; rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 32; sleeves 24
R3: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 28sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 20sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 36; sleeves 28
R4: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 34sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 26sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 38; sleeves 30
R5: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 34sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 28sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 42; sleeves 32
R6: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 40sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 32sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 44; sleeves 34
R7: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 40sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 32sts, 2tr in next sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 48; sleeves 36
R8: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 46sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 34sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 50; sleeves 38
R9: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 46sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 36sts, 2tr in next sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 54; sleeves 40
For size L the Yoke is done and you can move to the BODY section
YOKE SIZE XL
Start with 92sts and join the foundation ch to make a circle;
R1: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 22sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 14sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1tr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 30; sleeves 22
R2: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 28sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 20sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next ; rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 32; sleeves 24
R3: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 28sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 20sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 36; sleeves 28
R4: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 34sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 26sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 38; sleeves 30
R5: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 34sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 26sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 42; sleeves 34
R6: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 40sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 32sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 44; sleeves 36
R7: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 40sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 32sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 48; sleeves 40
R8: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 46sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 38sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 50; sleeves 42

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
R9: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 46sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 38sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 54; sleeves 46
R10: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 50sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 44sts, 2tr in next sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 58; sleeves 48
For size XL the Yoke is done and you can move to the BODY section
YOKE SIZE 2XL
Start with 100sts and join the foundation ch to make a circle;
R1: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 24sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 16sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1tr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 32; sleeves 24
R2: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 30sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 22sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan stitch) ; rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 34; sleeves 26
R3: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 30sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 22sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 38; sleeves 30
R4: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 36sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 28sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st) ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 40; sleeves 32
R5: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 36sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 28sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 44; sleeves 36
R6: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 42sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 34sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next (raglan lin st) ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 46; sleeves 38
R7: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 42sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 34sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 50; sleeves 42
R8: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 48sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 40sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st) ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 52; sleeves 44
R9: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 48sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 42sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 56; sleeves 46
R10: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 52sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 44sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 60; sleeves 48
R11: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 56sts, 2tr in next 2st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 46sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st) ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 64; sleeves 50
For size 2XL the Yoke is done and you can move to the BODY section
YOKE SIZE 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL
Start with 100sts and join the foundation ch to make a circle;
R1: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 24sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 16sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1tr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 32; sleeves 24
R2: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 30sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 22sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan stitch) ; rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 34; sleeves 26
R3: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 30sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 22sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 38; sleeves 30
R4: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 36sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 28sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st) ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 40; sleeves 32
R5: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 36sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 28sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 44; sleeves 36
R6: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 42sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 34sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next (raglan lin st) ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 46; sleeves 38
R7: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 42sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 34sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 50; sleeves 42
R8: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 48sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 40sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st) ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 52; sleeves 44
R9: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 48sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 42sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 56; sleeves 46
R10: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 52sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line), 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 44sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line); rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a slst into the first st;
Total sts: front and back panels 60; sleeves 48
R11: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 56sts, 2tr in next 2st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 46sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st) ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 64; sleeves 50
R12: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 60sts, 2tr in next 2st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 48sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st) ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 68; sleeves 52
Size 3XL only
R13: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 66sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 1tr in next 52sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st) ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 70; sleeves 52
For size 3XL the Yoke is done and you can move to the BODY section
Sizes 4XL and 5XL only
R13: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 64sts, 2tr in next 2st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 50sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st) ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 72; sleeves 54
R14: 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 68sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 1tr in next 54sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st) ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 76; sleeves 54
For size 4XL the Yoke is done and you can move to the BODY section
Size 5XL only
R15: 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 74sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st), 1tr in next 54sts, 1fptr in next st (raglan line st) ;rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round; close the round with a sl st into the first st
Total sts: front and back panels 78; sleeves 54
For size 5XL the Yoke is done and you can move to the BODY section
BODY
Splitting Round
Before splitting into sleeves and body, let’s summarize the yoke number of sts:
Front and Back Panels:
44 (48, 52, 54, 58) (64, 70, 76, 78) sts
Sleeves:
34 (36, 38, 40, 48) (50, 52, 54, 54) sts
At this stitch count we will add the 4 raglan lines. When splitting the yoke, the raglan lines will go into the body section.
Note: The first stitch in the round is written below as 1tr; as in the raglan section, you can make the first stitch as desired;
Start from where your yarn is
1tr (first staring st), 1tr in each of the next sts until the next raglan line, 1tr into the raglan line, ch 9 (9, 9, 9, 9) (9, 9, 10, 12) sts, skip the sleeve sts up to the next raglan line, 1tr in the raglan fptr, 1tr in each sts until the next raglan line, 1tr into the raglan line, ch 9 (9, 9, 9, 9) (9, 9, 10, 12) sts skip the sleeve sts 1tr into the last raglan line (before the first st)join with a ss into the the first st.
Continuing the BODY

R1: 1tr in each st around (including the armpit chain sts.) Close the round with ss into the first st;
Rep. R1 until you get to the desired length or until you have 14 (14, 14, 14, 15) (15, 16, 16, 16) rounds.
Finish the BODY section with the RIBBING.
SLEEVES
Please note that the sleeves have two connecting points with the body, where you should work sts into the body side row (the splitting round) to prevent any gaps. In this specific design, I used tr2tog twice at each of these points, resulting in an additional four stitches on each sleeve.

R1: rejoin yarn at the armpit; 1tr in each st around (consider the notes above).
R2-R3: rep. R1
R4: 1tr (the starting stitch), tr2tog (decrease), 1tr in next sts until you have 2sts left, tr2tog and ss into the first stitch;
Continue decreasing at every 4th round until you have 16 (16, 16, 16, 16) (16, 20, 20, 20) round;
For sizes XS (S, M, L, XL) (XXL) work 1 (1, 2, 2, 3) (3) more rounds with 1tr in each st.
You can adjust the sleeve length as needed;
I wanted to decrease a few more sts before starting with the ribbing; You can do the same by following the next pattern for the last round;
Last round: 1sc in next 3sts, sc2tog ; *rep to the end of the row
Continue to work 1tr in each st until you get to the desired length, or until you have 17 (17, 18, 18, 19) (19, 20, 20, 20) rounds.
Finish the sleeves with the RIBBING.
RIBBING
Work the ribbing pattern for the cuffs, bottom hem, and collar.
The ribbing is created using half-double crochet slip stitches (or double slip stitches) worked into the back loop only.
The cuffs and bottom hem ribbing are 9 stitches wide, while the collar ribbing is 30 stitches wide. If you prefer a narrower, non-folded collar, you can start with fewer stitches.
To create the cuffs and bottom hem ribbing, begin immediately after completing the sleeve or body of the sweater. For the neckline collar, rejoin the yarn at the midpoint of the sleeve stitches.
Start by chaining the required number of stitches plus 1
R1: start in the second st, 1dss (double slip stitch) in each stitch until the end of the row, 1ss into the next 2sts of the sweater edge (sleeve, bottom hem or neckline); turn
R2: 1dss into the back loop of the next sts to the end of the row; 1ch and turn;
R3: 1dss into the back loop of the next sts to the end of the row, 1ss into the next 2sts of the sweater edge;
Rep. R2 and R3 until you finish the entire circumference of the sweater section (sleeves, bottom hem or neckline)
Join the ribbing edges using slip stitches. For the collar, I chose to overlap an additional 10 rows in the ribbing pattern and leave it open for a stylish touch.

TO FINISH
Weave in all the ends and block to measurements
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

I hope you will like this pattern, and I’m sure that if you make this sweater, you will love it!


![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)