Crochet Your Own Sunset Breeze Dress. Free Crochet Pattern
I’m excited to finally share the Sunset Breeze Dress Pattern with you! This design has been on my mind since the beginning of the year, and it took me quite a while to bring it to life. I unraveled it at least four times, initially trying to create something I thought others would prefer, rather than staying true to my original vision.
After deciding to trust my instincts and start from scratch, I finally completed the dress, and I couldn’t be happier with the result.
I debated whether to release this pattern now, since summer is nearly over. However, I’m hopeful for a warm start to autumn so I can wear it a little longer before next year. The great thing about the Sunset Breeze Dress is that it’s easy to style for autumn, and I’m confident I’ll still have some time to enjoy it!
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com
Now, let’s see what we will need and how we can make this dress.
MATERIALS
• Yarn: Size 2 , Sport weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 3.5 mm crochet hook
o 3 mm crochet hook for edging and collar
• 8 – 10 buttons 1cm diameter
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
The Sunset Breeze Dress is a versatile and stylish dress that seamlessly blends classic elements with modern flair. Featuring a drop-shoulder construction, this design ensures a relaxed and comfortable fit, perfect for warm weather. The dress is crocheted using a mesh stitch pattern, which offers both breathability and a touch of elegance.
Whether you’re strolling along the beach or enjoying a casual day out, the dress is designed to keep you looking chic and feeling cool. Its timeless appeal and easy-to-wear design make it a must-have addition to any wardrobe
To make the dress, you will first work on the top. Once the top is complete, you will begin working on the skirt, starting from the waistband.
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The Sunset Breeze Dress Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with a 88 cm bust circumference, 91 cm hips circumference and wears a size Extra Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL);
Final Measurements of the Sunset Breeze Dress
Neck Width a: 17 cm (18, 18, 19) (20, 21, 21, 22, 23)
Back Panel (Bust) Width b: 48 cm (52, 54, 57), (61, 66, 72, 76, 81)
Armhole depth (sleeve width). c: 17 cm (18, 19, 21) (21, 23, 24, 26, 26)
*waist length (top) (measured from the back panel neckline) d: : 49 cm (50, 52, 56) (57, 60, 61, 64, 66)
Hips Circumference e: 110 (115, 120, 130) (140, 150, 160, 165, 180)
Skirt Length f: 69 cm (69, 69, 69) (69, 69, 69,69, 69)
YARN
For the Sunset Breeze Dress, I used Friends Wheel by Hobbii, in color Black (01) Yarn composition:55% Cotton, 45% Acryl. Each cake has 100 grams and is approximately 400 meters.
For each size, you will approximately need 1720 (1840, 1950, 2150) (2330,2560, 2780, 2960, 3240) meters.
ABBREVIATIONS
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
fpsc – front post sc
dc – double crochet
sc2tog – 2 sc worked together
dc2tog wide – 2dc worked together with 1st in between
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – row
** – repeated section.
TENSION
Using 3.5 mm crochet hook in mesh (filet) stitch pattern
25sts = 10 cm
11 rows = 10 cm
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com
STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES
MESH STITCH (FILET STITCH)
The primary stitch pattern used in the Sunset Breeze Dress is a mesh stitch pattern, also known as a filet stitch pattern.
This stitch pattern requires a multiple of 2+1 stitches.
Pattern (use it for the gauge swatch)
Chain the required number of stitches
R1: ch4, 1dc into the 7th stitch, *1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next; *rep the section to the end of the row; ch4 and turn
R2: *skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next;, *rep. to the end of the row; work the last dc into the third chain.
Front Post Single Crochet
We will work one row in front post single crochet for the edges. This will be the second and final row of the edge. These front-post single crochet stitches will cause the top loops of the stitches in the last row to lay on the surface, giving the edging a nice and polished look. This row will be worked on the wrong side.
Begin with a chain 1. Insert the hook from front to back into the first stitch, and then pull the hook out from back to front through the next stitch, working around the single crochet stitch of the previous row.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE TOP
BACK PANEL
The construction of the back panel consists of two pieces: the top of the back panel, which is worked bottom-up, and the bottom of the back panel (or the rest of the back panel), which is worked top-down.
The back panel is worked in two pieces because the design incorporates short rows to shape the shoulder. Working the top back panel bottom-up makes it easier to work the short rows with decreases, rather than with increases, which would be required for a top-down construction. (considering that we have to decrease multiple stitches in one single row.
BACK PANEL – Section 1
For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video tutorial available here.
*first 3ch at the beginning of the row, counts as first dc;
Start: ch 121 (129, 135, 143) (153. 165, 179, 191, 203)
R1: 4ch, 1dc in the 7th stitch from the hook, *1ch, skip the next st, 1dc in next st; *rep. to the ed of the row; ch4 and turn
R2: *skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next; *rep to the end of the row; work the last dc into the third ch; ch4 and turn;
Rep. R2 until you have 16 (16, 18, 20 ) (20, 22, 22, 24, 24) rows
BACK PANEL – Section 1 | Short Rows
To work the short rows, we will decrease at the beginning and end of each row.
Beginning of the Row: To decrease at the beginning, skip the stitches to be decreased by working slip stitches. This positions the yarn in the stitch where the current short row needs to start. For example, if we need to decrease by 4 stitches, we will work 5 slip stitches, skipping the first 4 stitches and positioning the yarn on top of the 5th stitch.
End of the Row: At the end of the row, leave the stitches that need to be decreased unworked
For all sizes:
Short R1: slip 5sts, ch4, skip the next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep until you have 4sts left; turn
Short R2: slip 7sts, ch4, skip the next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep until you have 6sts left; turn
Alternate R1 and R2 until you have 7 (7, 8, 9) (9, 9, 11, 13, 13) .
For sizes M and XXL you have to work one more row;
Sizes S, XL, XXL, 3XL, 5 XL
Next Short Row: Rep. Short R1
Size XXL, Short R11 (Last short row): Rep. R1.
Cut the yarn
53 (53, 55, 55) (57, 61, 63, 63, 67) stitches remaining.
From this total number of stitches, 5 stitches at the beginning and 5 at the end will form part of the shoulder and will be included in the next section where we straighten the shoulder edge.
If you consider the neckline width to be too large, you can repeat one or both short rows to achieve the desired number of stitches for the neckline width.
BACK PANEL – Section 2
Detail Edge
Work into the foundation row (the bottom) of the BACK PANEL Section 1;
Work on the right side;
R1:Rejoin yarn into the first st, ch1, 1sc into each st across; ch1 and turn
R2: 1fpsc around each st.
Actual Back Panel Section 2
R1: 4ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next *1ch, skip the next st, 1dc in next st; *rep. to the ed of the row; ch4 and turn
R2: *skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *1ch, skip the next st, 1dc in next st; *rep to the end of the row; work the last dc into the third ch; ch4 and turn;
Rep. R2 until you have 22 rows
Note: You can adjust the number of rows in the Back Panel Section 2 to achieve the desired waist length.
FRONT PANEL
Front Panel Right
Straighten the shoulder edge
The shoulder edge may now look uneven due to the short rows, resembling a stairway. To straighten the edge, we will work two rows: one in single crochet and one in front post single crochet.
Right Shoulder
Instructions:
Start the First Row:
Begin the first row on the right side.
Working the Rows:
To bridge the gaps between two short rows and avoid gaps, work two stitches together. Be careful not to increase the number of stitches.
You can work the bridge between short rows in two ways to avoid gaps and create a more even edge:
First Method:
Work 1 single crochet in the first 3 (5) stitches, depending on the short row.
Then, work sc2tog: insert the hook for the first leg into the 4th (6th) stitch, and for the second leg into the side stitch of the next short row.
Optionally, you can work the first leg as a half double crochet. This will make the “bridge” higher, resulting in a more even edge.
Second Method:
Work 1 single crochet in the first 4 (6) stitches, depending on the short row.
Then, work sc2tog: insert the hook for the first leg into the side stitch of the next short row, and for the second leg into the first stitch of the next short row.
Optionally, you can work the first leg as a half double crochet. This will make the “bridge” higher, resulting in a more even edge.
First Row (Single Crochet):
Work across the short rows in single crochet, ensuring you maintain an even edge; After completing the short rows section, work 1 single crochet into the next 5 stitches of the neckline.
At the end of this row you should have 39 (43, 45, 49) (53, 57, 63, 69, 73) sc stitches
Second Row (Front Post Single Crochet):
Work the second row in front post single crochet. This stitch will help lay the top loops of the stitches on the surface, giving a nice and polished look to the edging.
By following these steps, the shoulder edge will be straightened and have a clean, finished appearance.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com
Continue with the Right front panel
Continue from where your yarn is
R1: 4ch, skip next st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next; *rep. to the end of the row; 4ch and turn (last stitch is the last stitch of the shoulder edge)
R2: skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep to the end of the row; 4ch and turn
R3 – R4: rep. R2
At Row 5, we will add the required number of stitches at the end of the row to complete the front panel width. On this front panel, we will add the required number of stitches at the end of the row as foundation stitches in a mesh stitch pattern.
For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video
It will be easier to count the stitches that we will add, as ch-sps.
For each size you will need to add 11 (11, 11, 11) (12, 13, 13, 13, 14) ch-sps;
R5: Work the row into the established pattern to the last stitch of the shoulder;
Foundation mesh sts: Continue R5, following these steps:
Step 1: ch1, yarn over and insert the hook into the side of the last st;
Step 2: Yarn over, and pull the yarn through the first loop
Step 3: Rep. Step 2
Step 4: Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first 2 loops
Step 5: Yarm Over and pull it through all the loop on the hook
You completed the first ch-sp
Rep. Steps 1 to 5 until you add all the required ch-sps.
At the end of R5, ch4 and turn;
Starting with R6, continue working into the established pattern until you have
22 (24, 26, 28) (30, 32, 34, 36, 38) rows;
Note:
I divided the front panels into two sections, separated by a single crochet and back post single crochet detail edge.
For this sample, I worked the first section with the same number of rows as the back panel’s Section 1, starting from the neckline.
If the number of rows in the back panel’s Section 1 is uneven, I reduced the front panel’s first section by one row to ensure the first row of the detail edge is on the right side.
You can divide the front panel as desired and work as many rows as you like for each of the two sections. However, the first section must have an even number of rows.
Next Row: 1ch, 1sc in each st to the end of the row
Next Row: 1ch, 1fpsc in each stitch to the end of the row
Continue into the established stitch pattern until you have the same number of rows as for the back panel, counting from the neckline;
Cut the yarn
Left Front Panel
Left Shoulder
For the left shoulder, you will work the same two rows: one in single crochet and one in front post single crochet.
Begin the First Row:
Start on the right side.
For this shoulder, the first stitch will be the 5th stitch of the neckline, counting from the left edge to the right.
Work the First Single Crochet Row:
Follow one of the methods described above to make the “bridge” between short rows.
After finishing the first row, you should have 39 (43, 45, 49) (53, 57, 63, 69, 73) sc stitches single crochet stitches.
Turn and Work the Second Row:
Turn your work and crochet the second row in front post single crochet.
Continuing the Left Front Panel
R1: ch4, skip next st, 1dc in next, *1ch, skip next st, 1dc in next; *rep. to the end of the row; ch4 and turn
R2: skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep. to the end of the row;
R3: Rep. R2
At the end of R4, we will add extra stitches to complete the front panel width;
R4: Work into the established pattern to the end of the row; ch 26 (26, 26, 26) (28, 30, 30, 30, 32) sts
R5: ch4sts more and work 1dc into the 7th stitch, 1ch, skip 1st, *1dc in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st *; Rep. from * to* until you finish the ch sts;
Continuing R5: 1dc into the next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next st; *rep. to the end of the row;
Continue working into the established stitch pattern following the same pattern as for the right front panel;
EDGING
Side Edges (work both sides)
For the side edges of the shirt, we will work 2 rows in the contrasting color D:
Row 1: Single crochet (sc)
Row 2: Front post single crochet (fpsc)
Instructions:
Start working on the right side of the shirt.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com
Row 1:
Work 2 single crochets (sc) in each mesh stitch pattern side row.
Work 1 single crochet (sc) in each single crochet side row, as in the sc side rows of the bottom hem edges.
Begin this row from the bottom hem of one panel and continue across, ending at the bottom hem of the other panel.
Row 2:
in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep. to the end of the row;
Work front post single crochets (fpsc) across the row to complete the edging.
This will ensure a consistent and neat finish along the side edges of the shirt.
For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video
Marking the armholes (proceed the same for both armholes)
To ensure that the top shirt is even from the armpit to the bottom and that the sleeve stitches/side rows are correctly distributed across the front and back panels, follow these steps:
1. Align the Panels:
– Place the front panel and back panel one on top of the other;
– Ensure the bottom first stitch of the side edge of the front panel is directly on top of the bottom first stitch of the side edge of the back panel.
-Use a stitch marker to connect these two stitches to keep them aligned as you work.
2. Mark the Sleeve Width:
– Mark the desired width of the sleeve according to the measurements indicated in the pattern
3. Count and Adjust Stitches:
– Count the stitches from the armpit to the bottom edge on both the front and back panels.
– Ensure you have the same number of stitches on both panels.
– Adjust accordingly to achieve symmetry.
After marking the sleeve, we will join the side edges, starting from the bottom hem and working up to the armpit. Once we reach the armpit, we will continue with the sleeve edging.
For this sample, I used slip stitches to join the side edges of the shirt.
For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video
Sleeves Edging (follow the same pattern for both sleeves)
– Work in the round, but turn after each round;
R1 – R3: 1sc in each stitch
R4: 1fpsc in each stitch
Button Band Edge
Before starting the button band, please decide which side you want the buttons on and which side will have the buttonholes.
In my sample, I chose to place the buttons on the right front panel.
The button edge will be worked across the front panel edge. For this, work 2 stitches into each side row. Use the first and last chain as references if you have a 3-chain, and the bottom and top of the stitch if you have a double crochet.
Rejoin the yarn into the first stitch of the front panel edge. This will be at the bottom of the front panel if you chose the right front panel, or at the top of the front panel if you chose the left.
R1: ch1, 1sc in each stitch across (2sc in each side row); 1ch and turn
R2: 1fpsc into each stitch across, 1ch and turn
R3-R5: 1sc in each st across.
R6: 1fpsc in each st across
Button Holes Edge
Rejoin the yarn into the first stitch of the front panel edge. This will be at the top of the front panel if you chose the left front panel, or at the bottom of the front panel if you chose the left.
R1: ch1, 1sc in each stitch across (2sc in each side row); 1ch and turn
R2: 1fpsc into each stitch across, 1ch and turn
R3: 1sc in each st across.
At Row 4, we will make the buttonholes. But first, here are a few steps to follow to calculate how many stitches you will have between each buttonhole:
I used 1cm cm diameter buttons and allowed only one stitch for each buttonhole. Adjust if you have larger buttons or if you think the button won’t fit through the hole.
1. Count the stitches on the buttonhole band: Determine the total number of stitches.
2. Mark the first and last buttonhole stitches: Decide where you want the first and last buttonholes.
3. Count the remaining stitches: Calculate the number of stitches between the first and last buttonholes.
4. Divide the remaining stitches by the number of buttons: This will give you the number of stitches between each buttonhole.
For example, if the result is 10 stitches, use 1 stitch for each buttonhole and the remaining 9 stitches between buttonholes. If 1 stitch isn’t enough, you can use 2 stitches for each buttonhole, leaving 8 stitches between them.
Work the buttonholes as follows:
Chain the number of stitches required for the buttonhole and skip the same number of stitches.
R4: 1ch, 1sc up to the first button hole, 1ch (or 2ch, skip 1st (or 2sts) 1sc in next sts up to the next button hole; Rep. until you complete the row
R5: 1sc in each st across;
R6: 1fpsc in each st across;
WAISTLINE
Next, we create a waistline band to define the waist and provide a channel for the cord, allowing the dress to fit more snugly around the waist.
While working on the waistline band, make sure the button band and buttonhole band overlap properly. In this section, on the first round ensure that the waistline band is crocheted through both layers of fabric.
The pattern for the waistband will be:
R1 (right side): 1sc in each st around
R2 (wrong side) 1fpsc in each st around
R3 (right side): rep. R1
R4 (wrong side): 1dc in next 3sts, 1chm skip 1st (repeat this pattern even if you don’t have a multiple of 4sts)
R5 (right side): Rep. R1
R6 (wrong side): Rep. R2
Work in the round and turn after each round;
Rejoin yarn into the side seaming of the shirt and start the round from there;
Based on the stitches from the back panel, front panels, and the corresponding edge stitches, you should have the following stitch count after the first round:
259 (275, 287, 303) (323. 347, 375, 399, 423)
Note: Working with a large number of stitches can feel overwhelming, so don’t worry if you’re off by a few stitches.
DRES’S SKIRT
For the skirt, we will continue working in the round, turning after each round, using the same mesh stitch pattern as the top part.
Since everybody is unique, we cannot rely solely on standard measurements, but you can use them as a guideline.
According to the Craft Yarn Council, the standard measurements for hip circumference are:
XS: 83.5–86
S: 89–91.5,
M: 96.5–101.5,
L: 106.5–111.5
XL: 116.5–122,
XXL:132–134.5,
3XL:137–139.5,
4XL: 142–144.5,
5XL:155–157
For this particular pattern, we will use as reference the following measurements, but feel free to adjust it according to your measurements and the instructions below:
XS – 90 cm
S – 95 cm
M – 100 cm
L -110 cm
XL – 120
XXL – 130 cm
3XL – 140 cm
4XL – 145 cm
5XL – 160 cm
For the sample I made, I used the hip measurements for size S, even though I used the measurements for size XS for the top.
The dress has a positive ease of 19 cm around the hips. You can adjust the ease based on your preferences.
To ensure you achieve the desired fit for the skirt, follow these steps:
Step 1: Count the number of stitches you have after completing the waistband, and calculate the circumference in cm based on your gauge.
Example: If you have 259 stitches after the waistband, and your gauge is 25 stitches per 10cm, the circumference would be approximately 103.6 cm.
Step 2: Determine the final desired hip measurements of the dress (actual hip measurements + ease), and calculate the difference
Example: If your desired final measurement is 110 cm, the difference would be 110 cm – 103.6 cm = 6.4 cm
Step 3: Based on your gauge, calculate the number of stitches you need to increase to reach the desired hip measurement.
Example: If your gauge is 25 sts per 10 cm, then for 6 cm, the calculation would be:
6 cm * 25 sts / 10 cm = 15 sts.
So, to achieve the desired fit, you will need to increase by 15 stitches.
You can add these stitches either in a single round or progressively. To increase within the mesh stitch pattern, you will need to work (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in the same dc. This will add 2 stitches with each increase.
After you reach the desired number of stitches, continue working into the established stitch pattern until you reach the desired length;
For this particular sample, I worked 74 rounds for the length. After the first 44 rounds, I created a slit on the right leg.
SKIRT INSTRUCTIONS (according to the indicated measurements and gauge)
Final Hips Circumference of the skirt adding the ease:
110 (115, 120, 130) (140, 150, 160, 165, 180) cm
Calculating the sts according to the gauge we will have:
275 (288, 300, 325) (350, 375, 400, 413, 450) sts
Sts to increase:
16 (13, 13, 22) (27, 28, 25, 14, 27) sts
Increase (Inc) : (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in the same dc
R1 – R8: work into the established pattern
R9 (increase round): Work in the established st pattern 34 (44, 46, 28) (24, 26, 32, 58, 32) sts, 1Inc in next dc, *work into the established st pattern the next 33 (43, 45, 27) (23, 25, 31, 57, 31) sts, 1 Inc in next st; *Repeat this section as many times as your stitch count allows, and complete the round with the remaining stitches.
R10 – R44: continue working into the established stitch pattern
Creating the slit
To add a slit, follow these steps:
Cut the Yarn: Cut the yarn and start the next round where you want the slit to be.
Leave a Chain Space: Finish the first round with 1ch-sp before the beginning of the row; This space will accommodate the slit edges.
Continue Working: Proceed without joining the rounds until you have 74 rounds in total for the skirt or until you reach the desired length.
Note: you can add the slit earlier or at all. Feel free to customize the skirt as you wish
To finish the skirt, work the slit edges as follows:
First Row: Work 1 row of single crochet (sc) along both sides of the slit.
Second Row: Follow with 1 row of front post single crochet (fpsc) on both sides of the slit.
After finishing with the slit edges work the bottom edge:
R1: 1sc in each st across
R2: 1fpsc in each st across
R3 – R5: 1sc in each st across
R6: 1fpsc in each st across
CORD
Ch 3 times more sts than your waist circumference
R1: 1ss in each st across
R2: 1ss in each st across
TO FINISH
– Sew on the buttons.
– Weave in all loose ends.
– Block the dress to the specified measurements.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com
I hope you like this pattern and I can wait to see your creations. I wish for a new one in a neutral color now, but maybe next year.
Happy Crocheting
